so my car failed e-test for NOx by about 3 times the limit but had really low HC and CO numbers. i have heard that a trick that works well in this situation is to put a lot of gas line antifreeze in the car and it will have barely any NOx, but will raise the CO and HC a bit.

has anyone tried this? good results? bull shit?

thanks.

ive heard the same from my bud who does e etests.it apparently works...meh ur next 2 tests are half off anyways wortha try right

Why not fix the problem?

Originally Posted by fixitmattman

Why not fix the problem?

because i'm a horrible person that doesn't care about the environment. is that fine?

it's perfectly acceptable.

Originally Posted by Opel_Driver

because i'm a horrible person that doesn't care about the environment. is that fine?

LOL...

Originally Posted by Slawek

LOL...

totally acceptable .... and LOL

I've seen this work on a truck that should have NEVER passed.

However! I suggested that someone try this and this is the reply I got:

we did your trick, put the nox through the roof but co2 and hydro was fine.

This car did not have a functioning o2 circuit and also had a malfunctioning EGR circuit. *shrug*

edit:

4) Go directly to the emissions place and do your test. You'll want your car to be hot (contrary to what people say it's your O2 sensor that needs to be hot not your cat. When the O2 sensor is cold the ECU just runs a pre-planned fuel mapwhich is typically rich until it warms up then the ECU adjusts fuel accordingly)

thanks lude.

Back off the timing.

hmm, interesting concept

Borrowed from TPC , I havent tried this so I couldnt tell you if it works 100%

The trick I learned involves some sneaky fueling to fool the emissions testing centers. It won't damage your car and you should pass with flying colors.

What you need to purchase is a 4 L jug of methyl hydrate (sp?) from Home depot. It's in the paint section...I know this sounds a bi scarry but it worked on my old engine at the 175,000km mark and the tester said he had never seen a car pass that clean.

Ok here's what you do:

1) On the day of your test make sure your car is a close to empty as you feel getting it. I let mine get to the fuel light coming on then 20 km of driving.

2) Using a funnel (don't get the methyl hydrate on your paint) dump the entire 4 L jug into your gas tank.

3) Drive 5-10 km to ensure you are running on the methyl hydrate.

4) Go directly to the emissions place and do your test. You'll want your car to be hot (contrary to what people say it's your O2 sensor that needs to be hot not your cat. When the O2 sensor is cold the ECU just runs a pre-planned fuel mapwhich is typically rich until it warms up then the ECU adjusts fuel accordingly)

5) As soon as you've passed get yourself to a Sunoco and fill up with 94. Make sure you fill the next 2 tanks completly to the brim with 94. The methyl hydrate can be harsh on the rubber in the fuel system if you just let it sit. Thats why you need to fill up right away to dilute the methyl hydrate.

It works.

I've used methyl hydrate in my tank... not sure if it made a big difference on an e-test... but I had heard nothing but good things about it and it seemed to clean the car out a bit!

everything on the car works great except one of the EGR systems is closed off, it has 2 for some reason.

i think i'm going to try the gas line antifreeze today first and if it still fails i'll try the methyl hydrate tomorrow.

thanks.

Back of timing as stated. The fiance's civic had the same problem. Very high nox. Retarded the timing until the car would barely move on it's own, and it passed with flying colours.

ok i think i'll try a little timing retard with the gas line antifreeze. they were booked solid today so i don't have my next e-test until 5:30 tomorrow.

Originally Posted by 96escortlx

I've used methyl hydrate in my tank... not sure if it made a big difference on an e-test... but I had heard nothing but good things about it and it seemed to clean the car out a bit!

i was just going to say try this stuff, it works wonders i say put in 2ish litres, worked on my civ from last year and you know the condition of it

updates?

put in 3 liters of it when i was just about empty and it didn't help much. i failed again, it lowered CO to nothing at all, didn't read anything and HC was about half of what it was, but NOx was only down to about 2200 (it was about 2500), 700something is what i need to pass.

i didn't have time between class and my test to retard my timing though so that was only trying the gas line antifreeze, so it does work, but not enough of an impact on the NOx.

Nox is directly effected by pressure and heat.

A less than stellar EGR valve will cause high NOX readings.

Paul

yeah i think retarding the timing will help, if it ignites later then it won't be able to produce as much pressure, pressure is heat, heat is NOx. i probably won't be testing it again til sometime next week.

the guy i got the engine from just told me he thinks the O2 sensor is bad too, so i'm going to take the brand new one from my old engine and put it in, see if that helps. i would check for a CEL but i don't have my diagnostics shit hooked up yet because i just swapped in the twin cam on the weekend.

Don''t assume it's bad, check it with a meter. You have no hope of passinng an etest with a dead o2.

BTW, be careful with Methyl Hydrate, especially a lot. Some etest centers will do a sniff test on the tank, it's illegal, and rough on everything anyhow.

Paul

so i feel dumb now. i never did look to see where the timing was set until today, it was advanced as far as it could be.

so i drove it to muffler man without changing anything else, retarded the hell out of the timing and it ran like complete ass, tried to stall randomly and was slow as balls. e-tested it and it passed finally! NOx went way down to 200, CO was still nothing, then HC went up a lot, but stayed just under the limit. advanced the timing and drove home.

getting plates tomorrow. no more getting pulled over just for having a temp.

Just clean you're damn EGR valve