My B16 block had a ghetto rigged stud setup where 3 grade 8 bolts use to go for my driver side mount. A bad mount created pressure and snapped them out when I was in Ohio. I had to 'fix' it with helicoils to get home. After thinking over and over as to what to do, I decided to fix it cause I paid for the damn motor, I'm gonna get to use it.

Here is the damage (helicoils are visible):



I would like the 2 top holes filled in with aluminum and the bottom bolt remove (that is the only honda bolt for that block, it's stuck in there, grade 8 metal > easy out). Then I'm gonna take my block to a machine shop to have it retapped. As long as the cost is under 600-700$ (the price of a GSR block). I don't know where to start with this. I need people to recomend some shops for me. Thanks.

It's tricky to fill deep recesses like that. I don't think i'd attempt it for fear of ending up with an air pocket in there, it's difficult to get enough current though a super extended tip, without losing the end of the tungstun.

FWIW, A properly installed heli coil is stronger than the origional thread.

If you don't like the heli coil options, have you considered tapping the holes to the next size up, and using larger studs? Might be a 2$ solution, and it'd also be stronger than new.

Paul

Originally Posted by blkrx7

It's tricky to fill deep recesses like that. I don't think i'd attempt it for fear of ending up with an air pocket in there, it's difficult to get enough current though a super extended tip, without losing the end of the tungstun.

FWIW, A properly installed heli coil is stronger than the origional thread.

If you don't like the heli coil options, have you considered tapping the holes to the next size up, and using larger studs? Might be a 2$ solution, and it'd also be stronger than new.

Paul

Unfortunatly I don't like the idea of helicoils. I know they are stronger and that guys replace the stock thread from factory with helicoils, but not me. I like my factory bolts. Unfortunatly the stud that was in there was freaking huger (over 11/16 if I remember correctly) and I don't wanna go the next step up. I wish I could just do it thru my work. Some amazing welders here and I could have the damn thing UT for air pockets that might do harm but I can't. The current helicoils I have didn't last too long either (about 2 weeks). I know you know your stuff about metal and welding, so I will take any info you give me in concideration.

I'm lost, why wouldn't you want to go one size up in stud?

Paul

How about machining that beat up pockey and welding in an additional plate/plug with a stud already pressed into it!

Originally Posted by blkrx7

I'm lost, why wouldn't you want to go one size up in stud?

Paul

Well I could. I would just want it done professionally using grade 8 studs. The studs used previously where more along the lines of grade 2-3. We could drill in them to use the easy out and we couldn't do it to the grade 8 bolts even after getting special bits for it. I don't know if I would wanna do studs. There isn't alot of room for error you know? The mount is very small too and the stud would have to be short. Where would I get one anyways?

Originally Posted by TurboABA

How about machining that beat up pockey and welding in an additional plate/plug with a stud already pressed into it!

What beat of pockey? I'm confused as to what you said. Mind explain it a little more for me? I like details :P.

i've welded up broken tranny cases before as well as waterjackets on bmw heads. it is never really that fun to do, but if the aluminum is cleaned up properly it can be done.

i think turboABA meant "machine a pocket" and making a plate with a new tapped hole in it to be welded into the pocket. that would be a bit of work but it could be done... it would be best if you could find one place to do the machining and the welding.

try grand valley welding in cambridge, they do some awesome aluminum welding. if they don't have the time or are too expensive i could give it a shot but i won't promise anything.

Originally Posted by weiRtech

i've welded up broken tranny cases before as well as waterjackets on bmw heads. it is never really that fun to do, but if the aluminum is cleaned up properly it can be done.

i think turboABA meant "machine a pocket" and making a plate with a new tapped hole in it to be welded into the pocket. that would be a bit of work but it could be done... it would be best if you could find one place to do the machining and the welding.

try grand valley welding in cambridge, they do some awesome aluminum welding. if they don't have the time or are too expensive i could give it a shot but i won't promise anything.

Hmmm now what he said makes more sense lol. I wouldn't go down that road tho.

I'll give them a call. I appreciate the offer of doing it yourself but I want some sort of garantee or something. If I let professionals do it adleast I have a paper trail incase something happens. I just wish a block and some new bearings/rings would just fall into my lap (well not really cause that would hurt) just so it would make this problem go away. God, even the thought of dragging my B16 from shop to shop so they can look at it makes me cringe. I don't wanna deal with it at all, I just really want my engine back and scrap the new oil burning B18.

Sorry... I'm a FOB and the "Y" is right beside the "T".

Yes, I was talking about machining that POCKET and then welding in another machined aluminum part that would either have the stud already pressed/welded/fixed in it, or tapping the hole in that new material.

Originally Posted by TurboABA

Sorry... I'm a FOB and the "Y" is right beside the "T".

Yes, I was talking about machining that POCKET and then welding in another machined aluminum part that would either have the stud already pressed/welded/fixed in it, or tapping the hole in that new material.

Actually that's not a bad idea. But how strong would that be? IT would just be a welded peice and not full metal. Hmm...I'd have to talk to a engine machine shop and see what they think.

Well I could. I would just want it done professionally using grade 8 studs. The studs used previously where more along the lines of grade 2-3. We could drill in them to use the easy out and we couldn't do it to the grade 8 bolts even after getting special bits for it. I don't know if I would wanna do studs. There isn't alot of room for error you know? The mount is very small too and the stud would have to be short. Where would I get one anyways?

Studs arn't difficult to find, nor expensive. Brafasco, Spae Naur, Fastenal, over the shelf easy to find. Cut them to whatever length needed. Or do bolts if studs worry you.

No doubt getting the last of the broken stud out is going to be a chore, it's never fun. But it's got to come out regadless of the solution you choose. I've had to drill out a thousand exhaust manifold studs that were tempered like glass. It nearly always sucks.

Good luck

Paul

Originally Posted by blkrx7

Studs arn't difficult to find, nor expensive. Brafasco, Spae Naur, Fastenal, over the shelf easy to find. Cut them to whatever length needed. Or do bolts if studs worry you.

No doubt getting the last of the broken stud out is going to be a chore, it's never fun. But it's got to come out regadless of the solution you choose. I've had to drill out a thousand exhaust manifold studs that were tempered like glass. It nearly always sucks.

Good luck

Paul

Got any tips on removing such bolts? Any special drill bit? Grade 8 steel is not a steel I would take my 'steel' bit too. I realize the quality of this metal. What would you recommend anyone?

Seb, if you say you can get a gsr block for 600 bucks, that sounds like a pretty good option, more hp, more tq, and you don't have the mount problem to worry about. Like it would suck pretty bad to spend money on it, have it screw up again, and then regret not getting another block

Originally Posted by LudeSRV

Got any tips on removing such bolts? Any special drill bit? Grade 8 steel is not a steel I would take my 'steel' bit too. I realize the quality of this metal. What would you recommend anyone?

What? Your drilling into the aluminum, which is a fairly soft metal. Grade 8 are the bolts/studs that you would use.. those have nothing to do with the quality of the aluminum.

Just drill the holes yourself to the next size up (whatever provides you with a smooth surface, measure the depth and height of the hole, and go to brafasco and pick up some grade 8 coarse bolts or studs, your choice.

Then use a coarse tap and tap away.

You would have a mount thats just as strong as new.

tom he means to get the bolt out of the bottom, that is broken in there.

can try taking a bigger nut and welding it in the middle to the broken nut, that way it heats it up and gives you a head to put a wrench/ socket on. Works for me all the time.

Got any tips on removing such bolts? Any special drill bit? Grade 8 steel is not a steel I would take my 'steel' bit too. I realize the quality of this metal. What would you recommend anyone?

While you absolutely can get them out with HSS bits, you need to have a very specific feed and turn rate or you'll just dull them in 60 seconds. If your just doing this with a hand drill, center punch it, start small, and as the bit size increases decrease the drill speed. Drill it out as far as you can prior to trying the easy out, and warming up the block won't hurt.

Tungsten carbide bits if you can find a set. You might consider trying to borrow a set, as they'll be expensive. Just be prepared to shell out of you break one. I've got more than a few 30$+ bits.

Paul

carbide is the way to go, but if you can find a reverse spiral drill that would be the most ideal because it would actually help turn the broken bolt out at the same time it is drilling the hole though it.

fyi: i warrantee all my welding for life.

Originally Posted by Jimmy

Seb, if you say you can get a gsr block for 600 bucks, that sounds like a pretty good option, more hp, more tq, and you don't have the mount problem to worry about. Like it would suck pretty bad to spend money on it, have it screw up again, and then regret not getting another block

That point is I paid good money for a good B16 and I only got to 'enjoy it' for 2-3 weeks which I think is BS. I want to fix it, use it and build a GSR on my own terms and pace, or not even bother at all. At the moment, the LS is leaking/burning enough oil for me to be concerned. About 3-4 liters in 5000kms and it only takes 4 liters of oil (already added 2 last time I checked, ticking alot so I probably need to add more). I want my B16 back. I never had any engine issues with it.

Corey, you think you could help me pull that bolt out? I can't weld enough for it to hold good enough and since the engine is at your shop for now (won't be once I can go get it) I'm wondering if you could pull it. I'd throw a spare bolt in there for now to keep the thread good and make sure the surface is clean again. Then I'd worry about the other bolts. The helicoils are installed properly so I'm thinking of maybe just getting 2 grade 8 bolts that would fit in there and call it a day, or getting it fixed the right way.